The test fit of the cheek block has been achieved without major issues. The thickness of the wall was quite sufficient for tapping the S.S. machine screws. The screws tighten up to create mounting studs very nicely. The acorn nuts make for a nice scratch free finish. I will replace the 3 nylocks used temporarily on the cheek block with lock washers and acorn nuts for final assembly. You cannot see them but nylon washers are used everywhere to isolate the S.S washers and nuts from the Al plate.
On the inside I built up the cheek block with a piece of starboard plastic that I have used previously in my updating of my Northstar 26 sloop. Even though my boat will most likely sail freshwater I want to reduce any chance of galvanic corrosion and separate any contact between Al and S.S with something inert. 
Everything looks to be at an acceptable position. The sheave and pan head fasteners will not interfere with the daggerboard.
Thursday, February 14, 2008
Test fit of daggerboard cheek block
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2 comments:
Unless you've used plastic bushings through the parts, the screw body itself will conduct electricity and be a path for corrosion.
Also, unless the Starboard is very thin, its thickness will put the block screws in bending. As that's a highly-loaded block, that would be a potential point of failure.
Thanks for the thought about the Starboard plastic thickness. I take your point there Mr.anonymous. Luckily I'm in no rush to seal the assembly up as I have no main hull yet. I have some time to think about it and quite possibly just make everything out of 316 S.S. I just sealed up the daggerboard halves yesterday and today.
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