Monday, September 29, 2008

Bottom paint

I turned the hull over to get better access for sanding and applying the small amount of bottom paint on the float.  I used the Interlux VC Performance Epoxy product.  It has no anti-fouling properties but does give you a hard surface that is easily wet sanded smooth.

The below the waterline area on the float is so small that I did not need to use any kind of laserline or manometer to mark out the area.  I simply used a chaulk line.  The area looks reasonable.

I used a foam roller to apply the paint, and put on 4 coats.  After each coat I lightly sanded with 220 grit dry sandpaper.  I am sure that wet sanding now with 400 grit or higher will result in a very slick smooth surface.

Now to finish sanding and get the Endura topside paint primer on.

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Float painting strategy

As it seems with every new activity/task associated with this build, I am finding that my painting strategy is changing day to day as I take my little steps forward.   

Here is what I have done so far.
1) Purchased enough Endura EP-FD primer and EX-2C topcoat to paint the floats.  It is the toxic stinky stuff, and my intention is to roll and tip at this point.  I have purchased no high build primer.  I want to acheive that optically smooth surface without the use of a high build primer.
2) I am currently applying a series of skim coats of epoxy resin to the hulls. My intention  here is to fill the pin holes and smooth out the scratches from the 60 grit sanding.  Interestingly, I had no luck coating the resin with roll and tip techniques.  My laminating resin simply flowed/turned into an orange peel texture.  I found that applying the resin with the roller and then squeeging the excess resin off works very well. 

Here is the starboard float with 2 skim coats applied.  Next step (already started) is to sand with 120-150 grit sandpaper and recoat.  Then sand with 220 grit.  Then apply the endura primer.  At this point I am blessing my random orbital sander which is very useful on the relatively flat sections of the float hull.

Tuesday, September 09, 2008

Attaching the wingnet rails

It seemed a bit odd to be setting up for actual assembly work after all that sanding.  Once again, all the time is spent in set up, preparing the float hull and verifying the rail position.  Here I am in preparation using straps and 2x4's  to help hold the wingnet rails in place.  It seems like a long time ago that I molded these parts in the basement. The rails were constructed in a fine weave 8.9 oz s-glass cloth.  They turned out very smooth a did not require any pre-fairing to get rid of laminate texture.

First I attached the rails to the deck and left the gunwale attachment points free.  I used 2 layers of the 8.9 oz s-glass cloth as tape.  I also added some cabosil to the epoxy resin where the rails are attached to the float.

Then with clamps the inner supports are attached to the gunwales.   The clamps did a very nice job lifting the rail up to the required height.

Finally,  the two hulls are swapped in position.  The starboard float is now in the garage.

Here is the port side float ready for final finishing and prep for the paint primer.

Monday, September 08, 2008

Video of F22 sailing and updated boat logo for Raven.

Ian Farrier has posted a video of Oliver Doms F22 at sail in Germany.  The link is near the top of the F22 page here.  It looks like they are cruising (in a close reach) at 8.7-8.9 knots with no trouble at all.  

My boat logo concept is now extending down the full side of the float.  I've updated the small picture in the side bar but here is  a better view (already updated).  

As I originally intended, there is a bit of the Canadian west coast tradition in this design.  But simple enough I hope for us to mask it off and paint it ourselves.

I've finished the float fairing and I am now setting up to attach the wingnet rails.  After that it is time for painting.  

Update Sept. 10th
Tom McCaw of Vancouver Island has cleverly put my logo on Oliver Doms F22 float hull in the water.  Tom reminds me that it is not his best effort, but I think it is brilliant.   I only hope Raven will look as good as this when complete.

I thought for a while Raven would have to be painted black.  But white ravens have been spotted on the island.

Wednesday, September 03, 2008

Jim Shula launches his F22

Jim Shula of Portland Maine has launched his F22 trimaran he has built for Sam Ballard.  Pictures can be seen here.  It's great to see another F22 in the water.  

Monday, September 01, 2008

Still fairing the floats

.... but I am getting close enough to think about attaching the wingnet rails and applying a paint system primer to the hulls. Here are the current set of questions in my mind.

  1. What topside paint system should I use? I am tending toward using the two-part, water-borne linear polyurethane enamel from SystemThree. Environmental, thinning and cleanup attributes are very attractive.
  2. Should I use a HVLP paint sprayer or roll and tip? Can I use my air compressor to drive a HVLP spray gun or is an air turbine required? The SystemThree LPU paint may work well with an air compressor driven HVLP spray gun as moisture in the compressed air could not possibly affect the finish.
  3. Is there a designed below waterline region for a float? Some of Ian's drawings do indicate a small region, but I can see no dimension(s) explicitly called out. Is a topside 2 part LPU paint suitable for covering the complete float hull? I have been thinking about using Interlux performance epoxy for everywhere below the waterline, main hull and floats.
The fairing work goes much easier, in my height challenged garage, with the second hull sitting outside. I will be very glad indeed, when I am on to building a single main hull structure!